Wonderful World of Flooring

Terms you might hear when shopping for Hardwood flooring

2011-03-29T08:16:00.001-07:00

Sometimes shopping for flooring can get a little confusing when the salesperson starts throwing some industry jargon at you in the middle of the sales pitch, so I thought a little education on some of the more often used terms might of some help.

This list is not comprehensive, but should cover most of what you hear when shopping:

· ENGINEERED HARDWOOD - This type of hardwood (as opposed to solid hardwood) is constructed much like plywood, except with a top layer of wood that is sanded and finished. The top layer of wood can be of any species that solid hardwood can, such as Oak, Walnut, Hickory, Brazilian Cherry, etc. This type of hardwood flooring is the most reliable and stable.

· URETHANE FINISH - Is the protective clear finish that is applied to the top of the hardwood to keep it looking good.

· ALUMINUM OXIDE - An amazingly hard substance that is added to the Urethane finish to greatly increase the amount of wear and tear the finish layer can handle.

· PLANK EDGES- Referring to the edges of each individual hardwood plank (or strip). You will hear terms such as Beveled-Edges, which are a large bevel that is cut into the top edge of the plank. This gives a pretty disitinctive V-groove. There is also one called an Eased-Edge. This one is a bit shallower and thus gives a little less of the V-groove. Yet again smaller is a Micro-beveled Edge and very close to that is a Kissed-Edge which is perhaps the smallest.

· JANKA RATING - Is an indicator of the relative hardness of a particular species of hardwood as compared to another. The higher the number, the harder the wood. For example, Red Oak has a Janka rating of 1290, whereas Santos Mahogany has a rating of 2200.

· HARDWOOD GRADE - Hardwood comes in different grades, mistakenly referred to as a rating for quality. In general, grades for Oar are: Clear, Select, No.1 Common and No.2 Common. Basically referring to the amount of knotts and mineral streaks that are in the wood. Clear having none and No.2 Common having the most. It may be true however that the lower grades may have a few more "culls" than the top grades. The quality of the wood should be just as good. The biggest difference is in the appearance. The Clear grade looking more formal and the No.2 Common looking more rustic.

· ABOVE GRADE and BELOW GRADE - Above grade flooring means above ground level, leaving at least 18 inches of well-ventilated space. Below grade flooring is below ground level, such as a basement or level below ground. Most hardwood flooring is best suited for above grade applications due to the moisture issues common below grade. Solid hardwood should only be used above grade. Some engineered hardwoods can be used below grade.

· ACCLIMATION - Acclimating the wood is to move it to the area that it is to be installed so that it can come to the same temperature and moisture content as that area.

Different types of trims used with Laminate and Hardwood floors

2011-03-22T09:20:00.000-07:00

When you have picked out the hardwood or laminate floor for your home, one of the other things you need to think about is the trim that is used to finish out the job and give it that completed look. What are the various trim pieces used for finishing your flooring? Here is a quick and concise list:

· QUARTER ROUND-Quarter Rounds are used in much the same manner as a Wall Base molding, and much of the time, used along with Wall Base, to conceal the required expansion space between the wall and the flooring.

· END CAP - Also referred to as Baby Threshold. It is used to terminate the edge of the flooring where it meets carpet, sliding glass doors, fireplaces and exterior door jambs. Anywhere that there is an abrupt vertical surface. In the instance of carpet, the edge of the carpet is tucked up tight to the End Cap.

· T-MOLDING - Used in doorways and other areas where one floor will transition to another floor of the same height.

· REDUCER STRIP - Used in transitioning to a floor of lower height. An example would going from a laminate or hardwood floor to a sheet vinyl floor.

· STAIR NOSE - This is used at the front edge of hardwood or quick step laminate flooring that is put on steps. It is usually rounded on the front edge

· WALL BASE - This is attached to the wall to cover the expansion gap where the floor meets the wall. Generally (but not always) used in conjunction with Quarter Round.

· RISER -The vertical element in a set of stairs, forming the space between one step and the next. Risers can sometimes be obtained to match the flooring that is being installed.

There you have it. A short list of terms for hard-surface floors. These trim pieces are essential for a finished appearance, and it is essential to use the right trim piece in the right place. Hopefully this list will help you get what you need to do the job correctly.

What to look for when shopping for hardwood and laminate flooring

2011-03-18T08:38:00.001-07:00

Let's tackle hardwood first. Basically, there are two types of hardwood floors to consider - Solid and Engineered. Many people have the mistaken idea that solid hardwood is the better choice. Really, that could not be further from the truth. Solid hardwood flooring can be quite susceptible to problems from moisture and temperature. Whereas engineered hardwood is much more stable in the presence of moisture and temperature extremes.

When shopping for either type, ask how many coats of urethane finish was applied to the surface of the wood. Some of the cheaper varieties only use three coats, where the higher-grade hardwood floors will have 7 or 8 coats or more. When looking at solid hardwood floors, check the grade of the hardwood. At one end of the grading system you will find wood that has no knots or mineral streaks, lending itself to a more formal look. At the other end of the spectrum is wood that has many knots and mineral streaks, looking good in a more rustic environment. Neither type is better than the other. It is merely a matter of personal taste.

For engineered hardwood flooring, aside from the number of urethane layers applied, you want to look at how thick the top layer of wood is. Some of the cheaper varieties have a paper-thin layer of wood. That is not good for the long-haul. Try to get as thick a top layer as your budget will allow.

Next, let's consider laminate flooring. This one is a bit tougher because most laminate floors look quite similar to each other in the way they are constructed. The best thing I can tell you is to stick with brandnames that have a high reputation for quality, such as Mohawk and Quick Step to name a couple. In general the better laminates as compared to the cheap ones will have a much higher quality coreboard and a thicker, tougher wear-layer on top.

Hopefully this will give you some things to look for when shopping for your next floor. One last bit of advice is regarding laminate underlayments. Get one with a built-in moisture barrier. And consider a premium grade underlayment if having a quiet floor matters to you. If it doesn't, then grab the one with a good sale price.

Should I do it myself, or hire a pro?

2011-03-16T08:54:00.001-07:00

Many people would like to install their own flooring to save money or just to have the satisfaction of accomplishing this themselves. So the question is: "Should I do it myself?"

It's a valid question, but should be given due consideration. Some types of cheap flooring lend themselves quite well to a DIY project, where others do not. How do you know? Let's consider a few things that may help you make an educated decision.

Let's start with carpet. This type of flooring is generally best left to the professional installer. For a really good looking job, it requires specialized tools that are typically not available to the general handy person. It also requires experience in knowing how to stretch and seam each particular style of carpet as well.

Sheet vinyl is sort of a mixed bag. The majority of the sheet vinly floors on the market require a full-spread adhesive and a heavy roller to set the vinyl into the adhesive. They can be somewhat difficult to work with as well. Here again, it is a job best left to the pro. Having said that, I will mention that there are a new breed of sheet vinyls available that do not require being installed with a full-spread adhesive. They can be attached at the edges or even loose laid. That is something the DIY'er can consider doing.

Another one is Tile flooring, such as ceramic tile or porcelain tile. If the job is not too complex with lots of diagonal cuts or patterns with mixed colors of tile, this could a a consideration for the do-it-yourselfer. It is more involved in that you will need to rent a tile cutter, make sure the subfloor is thick and level enough, put down a backer board and grout it. It takes careful planning and lot's of patience and elbow grease, but it is within the realm of doing it yourself.

Let's move on to hardwood flooring. There are two types of hardwood floors available. Solid and engineered. Solid hardwoods require a hardwood nailer to install and may be best left to pros. Engineered hardwoods can be glued down, a job requireing minimal tools. Not too bad for the DIY'er.

Laminate flooring is a good choice for the person wanting install their own flooring. Basic wood cutting tools are what is required along with an inxpensive laminate installation kit. Plenty of videos are available online to show you tips and tricks for a great looking job.

Lastly, let's consider Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT). Another good choice for the do-it-yourselfer. Not too complicated and minimal tools that most anyone already has will work. LVT can make for a beautiful job that will take a lot of wear and tear.

So basically, look at the complexity of the job. Is the room(s) a basic square or rectangular shape, or do they have some oddly angled walls and nooks and crannys? Is the subfloor in good shape and pretty level and flat, or will it need a lot of work before installing the floor? Do you have access to the appropriate tools to do the job correctly? Those are good things to consider first. But certainly don't be afraid to do it. I've seen many, many great looking jobs done by the DIY'ers of the world. The two keywords are: Planning and Patience.

Flooring For Do-It-Yourselfers

2011-03-13T10:15:00.001-07:00

The Do-It-Yourselfer (DIY) segment of the flooring industry has never been better. There has been a lot of innovation in recent years that has brought a variety of flooring to the market that are relatively easy to install, even for the everyday DIY’er.

One of the first types of flooring we think of for the do-it-yourselfer is laminate flooring. Long known for it’s durability and ease of maintenance, laminate is relatively easy to install with a little care and patience. It does require some basic wood cutting tools and a highly recommended installation kit, but most novices that are even a little handy can do the job.

Another category of flooring to take a good look at is Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT). We aren’t talking about the old peel and stick vinyl tiles that you still find at the big-box lumber stores. LVT is a very high-quality vinyl tile (or plank in the case of a wood look) that looks beautiful and is amazingly durable. New brands such as Konecto and Zaxxon are making LVT that can be installed with nothing more than a tape measure and a razor knife. No adhesives needed with these brands.

Lastly, you will soon see some new tile flooring on the market from Mannington’s Adura line that looks like tile and wood plank that has a composite core that remains flexible. That means that unlike real ceramic tile, it won’t break if you drop a pan on it. It also has a locking system much like that of laminate flooring, thus doing away with messy adhesives and backer board.

This is a good time for DIY’ers. With plenty of choices in beautiful, top-notch flooring that most anyone who is a little handy can install a new floor in their home with only a rudimentary set of tools. Time to go shopping!

Real hardwood or Laminate, which is better?

2011-03-06T20:06:00.000-08:00

A question often asked is "which would be better for me to buy, hardwood or laminate flooring?" It's a valid question for looking for a quality, durable floor for their home. It really depends on what the most important features are for you.

Let's take a look at hardwood flooring first. It generally comes in two different types, solid hardwood and engineered hardwood. The differences being pretty self explanatory, solid hardwood is just that - each plank is a solid piece of wood. Engineered hardwood is constructed much like plywood. It consists of numerous thin layers of wood, each layer being laid 90 degrees to the layers above and below it, with a finished layer on top. The layers are bonded together to form a strong plank.

One installed, you can't tell whether it is a solid wood or an engineered wood because all you can see is the finished top layer. I almost always recommend engineered hardwood because it is much more stable in the presence of moisture. Most engineered hardwood floors can be installed below-grade, whereas solid hardwood cannot.

Laminate flooring planks generally consists of a fiberboard core sandwiched between layers of plastic melamine with an additional wear-layer on the top. There are many variations to this formula, but that gives you a general idea of it's construction.

Now for the comparison. When it comes to scratches, overall wear and tear and ease of cleaning, the nod has to go to laminate flooring. It is definitely much more scratch resistant than hardwood. It is almost impossible to stain, and just plain takes a fair bit of abuse from foot traffic. In general the gloss level is lower than that of most hardwoods (There are exceptions though, because there are high-gloss laminates and low-gloss hardwoods available). Laminates are in general a bit lower in price than hardwoods.

Hardwood floors have a natural beauty that is hard to beat. I will have to say though, that the latest generation of laminates looks amazingly close to that of real hardwood. Despite the fact that hardwood does scratch easier than laminate, hardwood can be sanded and repaired in-place. Laminate cannot. Planks of laminate must be removed and replaced.

It's not always an easy question to answer. It pays to look at both to see whether you like the natural beauty of real wood, or the durability of laminate.

Should I Acclimate My Hardwood Flooring?

2011-03-02T07:42:00.000-08:00

One of the questions I get asked the most is: "Do I need to acclimate my hardwood flooring before having it installed?". It's a good question to ask because it can make or break the installation job. The short answer is yes, your hardwood flooring should be acclimated. Now for the rest of the story.

It really depends on the type of hardwood you are having installed. If it is a solid hardwood, you most definitely want to acclimate it first. Solid hardwoods are much more sensitive to changes in moisture, even the moisture that is present in the air, and also to temperature. Solid wood will expand and contract depending on those two factors. So a good rule of thumb is to let it acclimate in the room(s) that it will be installed in for around one week. Some people say 72 hours is enough, and it may be at times, depending on temperature and humidity. I always like to be on the safe side and say one week though, because installing solid hardwood floors before they have adequately been acclimated can lead to many problems. Always check with the manufacturers instructions and make sure you follow their recommendations at the very least to ensure the validity of the product warranty.

Engineered hardwood flooring is a bit of a different animal. Engineered hardwood floors are quite stable in the presence of humidity and varying temperatures. And it's for this reason that I have always preferred engineered hardwood over solid hardwood. Some manufacturers will even say that it is not necessary to acclimate their engineered hardwood flooring before installation. Again, to be on the safe side, I would still let it acclimate at least 48 hours before installing it.

As I mentioned earlier, you always want to stay within the manufacturers recommendations. If you acclimate a little longer, that is fine, but at a minimum don't go less than what is stated in the instructions. If a problem should ever arise after the flooring is installed, the inspector that is sent out to look at the floor from the manufacturer will look for any violations of the stated recommendation for that particular floor. If the rules were not followed, they won't stand behind the warranty.

So, back to the beginning, the short answer is yes, by all means let the floor acclimate, especially if it is a solid hardwood.

Keep Your Hardwood Looking For The Life Of Your Home

2011-02-27T10:58:00.000-08:00

Most floor coverings in your home will at some point need to be replaced. That’s just a normal course of events over the life of your home. Hardwood flooring is looked at just a bit differently however.

Hardwood flooring is usually looked at as a long-term investment, that, when properly maintained, can last for the life of the home. To get that lifetime of use from your hardwood floors though, does require the proper maintenance.

Fortunately, today’s generation of hardwood flooring is much simpler and easier than the old wax and buff hardwood of years ago. Modern hardwood floors have a finish coat (also referred to as the wear-layer, and is actually several layers) of urethane with aluminum-oxide. This is an amazingly durable finish and will look good for a very long time.

So here are some tips for keeping that wood looking it’s best. A good start is to use throw rugs in higher traffic areas and in front of entry doors. Another good item to invest in is floor protectors to use under chair legs. Urethane finish hardwoods are tough, but they can still be subject to scratching from sliding chairs. Also, if you have a dog inside your home, it would be well advised to keep it’s nails trimmed.

Good general maintenance should be followed as well. The most basic of which is vacuuming and/or dust-mopping regularly. This will keep dirt and grit off of the floor which can also damage the finish over time.

The next step is using an appropriate cleaner. Manufacturers usually have a recommendation, so always check their instructions that came with the floor, or on their websites for appropriate cleaners. There are also excellent products available from other companies that specialize in these types of products. One that comes to my mind is a company named Bona. They offer very high-quality floor cleaners.

Of course it’s always good to wipe up spills immediately. Don’t let water or liquids stand on the floor. For stubborn stains, an appropriate cleaner as mentioned above is recommended. For light scratches most manufacturers have a polish available that can be applied to the scratched area. Bona also makes a quality floor polish.

Prevention goes a long way toward keeping your hardwood floors looking their best. Throw rugs and chair leg protectors, as well as regular vacuuming and/or dust-mopping is all that’s needed most of the time, with an occasional cleaner for the stubborn spots. It’s really fairly easy to care for hardwood floors, and keep it looking good for the long-haul.

Have you seen the new high-gloss laminate floors?

2009-04-27T09:12:00.000-07:00

I was handed a piece of flooring a while back and thought it was an absolutely beautiful plank of exotic wood. One thing escaped my notice as I was admiring the warm color and distinctive grain pattern.....it wasn't real hardwood. As I flipped it over to look at the backside, it didn't look like hardwood; it looked like laminate flooring. Was I impressed? You bet! This was one of the most realistic looking laminate floors that I have ever seen.

It was an Armstrong laminate from their Grand Illusions collection. The color I had was Cabreuva. And yes, I'm thinking of putting it my living room. There are other brands that now have it as well such as Lamipro in their Steinway collection. Quick Step is also coming out with a high-gloss laminate which will be called Illustra. That line should be out shortly and I have high expectations for it going by Quick Step's high reputation.

I'ts amazing what they can do with the appearance of laminates now. If you like a rustic look, they have managed to mimic a handscraped hardwood appearance as well. This style has been out for a few years now and keeps improving.

Anyway, for all of you high-gloss fans the scene of laminate flooring is looking quite nice. Do yourself a favor and check them out. I don't think you will be disappointed.

Pep talk

2009-02-25T12:50:00.000-08:00

Sometimes it can be an intimidating thing for the average homeowner to consider installing his or her own flooring, but in reality, it's something that most people can consider doing. We routinely get letters from customers that have done their own work and are quite happy not only with the results, but also from the significant money savings. The way the economy is these days, folks are trying to save wherever they can and this is a good way to save a fair chunk of your hard-earned dollars.

My best advice is to take your time. Don't rush through the project, plan it out ahead of time so you know exactly what you are going to do and what tools you will need to have on hand when you are ready to start laying the floor. Most manufacturers make instructions available. Many have a video available either on a dvd or at least viewable on their website.

In the testimonial section of our website we have posted a few pictures that were sent to us by customers that did their own installation and I have to say they look great. You can take a look at them here: http://www.affordafloors.com/store/testimonials.php So, try not to be so intimidated. Relax and take a good look at it. If you need some advice, give me a ring on the phone and I'll do my best to help you with some good answers to your questions. You can reach me through the toll-free number at www.affordafloors.com

Another tip for DIY laminate installation

2008-12-10T07:47:00.000-08:00

From time to time I have people come to me with a common problem: "why is my laminate starting to have peaks or high places?" This question pops up every once in a while, and most of the time it can be traced back to a unnoticed mistake when the flooring is being installed.

Laminate flooring requires a gap of around a quarter of an inch (depending on the brand of laminate and the size of the area it is installed in) to be left between the wall and the flooring itself. Herein lies the rub--laminates will expand and contract according to changes in the room temperature and climate. If there is no expansion gap allowed, then the floor will begin to buckle because there is no room for it to grow. "but I left a gap" you may say. Usually when this happens it is because of one tiny point that goes unnoticed. After the laminate is installed, normally trim is put down to cover the gap. Usually quarter-round or base molding. Sometimes the when the trim is nailed in place, one of the nails can angle downward to the floor, hitting the edge of the laminate. That one nail can effectively eliminate the gap on that side of the room because it will stop the laminate from expanding into the gap.

Sometimes the problem can be in other areas that "bind up" the edge of the laminate flooring, such as when you don't undercut far enough under a doorway and the laminate is hitting part of the wall structure, or perhaps not leaving any expansion gap under a transition trim that is installed in the middle of a doorway or up against a fireplace.

So one of the keys to a reliable installation is to make sure there is a 100% continuous gap all the way around the perimeter of the laminate floor. It's a small simple thing, but it can make a huge difference in a smooth trouble-free installation.

Revolutionary new floor - Part 2

2008-10-31T07:31:00.000-07:00

In my last post I talked about a collection of vinyl tiles called Oasis from a company named Zaxxon. These tiles really do have some revolutionary features that I found to very interesting. Well, in part 2 I am going to talk about another vinyl tile from Zaxxon that, to me, is even more interesting. This collection is named Ionique.

So what makes Ionique vinyl tile so revolutionary? Here's the scoop: These tiles are uniquely engineered to help clean the air in the room in which they are installed. They use a technology similar to what many state-of-the-art air purifiers do, which is release negative ions into the air.

There are two ingredients taken from nature and used in this product that give it the ability to do it's part in keeping the air clean. One of these are ionizing volcanic minerals. These are mixed with a powdered form of a semi-precious gemstone called Tourmaline. Together they provide a rich source of negative ions into the air, and the more traffic it gets, the more negative ions are released.

So air pollutants such as germs, pollen, molds, odor particles, VOCs (such as Benzene, Toluene, Ethylbenzene, mp-Xylene, o-Xylene and formaldehyde) and other pollutants which are positively charged in their nature, are greatly reduced by the negatively charged ions that are released into the air by these tiles. The negatively charged particles neutralize the active state of the positively charged pollutants.

It's also nice to know that negative ions are quite safe. If you have ever been around a waterfall or splashing waves of water, you have been bathed in negative ions without even knowing it. It is something that is naturally occurring and contributes to better air quality.

Does it wear out? According to the company, it continues to do this throughout the life of the product, which should be a very long time. Applications for this product are many. Obviously it would be great in the home, but it's also used in business offices (to reduce "sick building syndrome") and medical clinics and offices.

Here are a few facts from the folks at Zaxxon:

Up to 87% of bacteria eliminated in the first hour of exposure
Up to 85% of E. Coli eliminated in the first hour of exposure
Up to 17% Staphylococcus Aureas eliminated in first hour of exposure
Up to 85% of common odors are diffused in first hour of exposure
Up to 26% of Formaldehyde reduced in first hour
Reduces up to 16% of Legionella in first hour of exposure

Sounds pretty amazing huh? Needless to say I was very intrigued when I was introduced to this product. I believe it is going to be quite a popular item with anyone that has allergies, chemical sensitivities or just plain interested in the quality of their indoor air. The nice thing is that you aren't sacrificing anything in the decor department. This is very nice looking stuff, and very well made.

Now I've got to go home and see where I can fit this in. Hmmm........the bedroom would be a nice place to start.

And of course, you can find it here: AffordaFloors.com

Revolutionary new floor - Part 1

2008-10-29T07:44:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while I run across a product or company that really grabs my attention, and this is one of those times. I was introduced to a company named Zaxxon. They have a couple of unique flooring products that I will tell you about, but first a little about the company.

They are located in Asia, with factories based in China and Taiwan. Zaxxon has been making vinyl tile for nearly 40 years and shipping it around the world. One of the things I appreciate is that they make every effort to operate by green principles, and their products do not require any trees to be cut down. They do use recycled materials in the manufacture of their flooring. No ozone depleting chemicals are used and there is no acid waste generated by manufacturing. Their flooring has excellent indoor air quality, with little or no VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds) and will not promote microbial or fungal growth. And last but not least, throughout the manufacturing process, they strictly enforce environmental technologies that do not pollute the air, ground, or water.

I guess that's a nice start huh? Now for the product. I am going to talk about two products, one in this entry, and the other in my next entry which will be "Revolutionary new floor - Part 2". The first one is called Oasis. It is a luxury vinyl tile that is basically a peel-n-stick tile. (albeit a very high quality tile, not to be confused with those cheapies you get at the building supply or discount store) That's revolutionary? No, but the manner in which it works is high-tech.

To get the tiles to stick to the floor, they use something called LAYTAC™. This unique substance is like millions of microscopic suction cups that grab on the the floor underneath the tile and hold it tightly in place. There is no adhesive at all used in the installation of Oasis tiles.

The interesting thing is that these tiles are removable and can be re-installed. When you remove them, there is no residue of any kind left on the floor underneath. And even though the tiles are removable, they stay put unless you intentionally remove one. Even under heavy traffic, the floor stays solidly in place.

Like I mentioned earlier, these tiles are a very high quality. They look great and are available in a tile look and a wood plank look as well. And for my shameless plug: They are available at AffordaFloors.com.

Nifty new laminate repair tool

2008-09-19T08:16:00.000-07:00

Quick Step recently came out with a tool that makes it much easier to replace a damaged laminate plank without having to completely disassemble your floor. Replacing a plank isn't so bad if it's close to the edge of the room, but if it's out in the middle of the floor it can be pretty time consuming. So Quick Step has an answer. They call it the Unifix tool. It's pretty simple in it's operation, but quite effective.

You can also check out a video to see it in action on Quick Step's website. So if you need to replace a plank that is out in the middle of your floor, it might be worth it's cost to save a lot of time and work.

And of course for a shameless plug, it's available here: AffordaFloors.com

An important detail for a professional look

2008-09-03T13:54:00.000-07:00

I have seen some do-it-yourselfer floor installations that looked quite good except for one detail that kept it from looking like a professional job, and that is: they didn't undercut the doorways. If you are one of those folks who like to install it yourself and have it look like a pro did it, this is one detail you need to pay attention to.

Undercutting the doorway is simply using a saw to cut the bottom of the door jamb and trim so that there is a gap between the jamb/trim and the subfloor, allowing you to slide the laminate or hardwood flooring under the jamb and trim. The picture below shows an installation where the doorway was undercut so that the laminate could be slid underneath resulting in a professional looking installlation.

You can use a regular handsaw turned sideways to do this, or you can pick up an undercut saw from your local building supply. If you click on this link it will take you to Home Depot's website so you can see what one looks like: Home Depot Undercut Saw Most building supply places should have one, and maybe even a little cheaper.

When you are ready to undercut the doorway, use a piece of laminate along with a piece of the underlayment under the laminate piece as a spacer. Lay the those pieces up against the door jamb and lay the saw on top to cut at the right height.

If you are going to flow from one room into an adjoining room, you will want to undercut all the way around the jamb. If you are only doing one room, you will only undercut halfway through the doorway, as in the picture above.

Be sure to have patience and take your time. You don't want to rush through something like this. It's not as bad as it looks, and yes, a do-it-yourselfer can get the job done and have it look like a pro did it.

Easiest floor in the world to install

2008-05-06T07:55:00.000-07:00

One question that I hear frequently is "which floor is the easiest for typical homeowners to install themselves?" Generally, my answer would be laminate flooring. And that still is the first floor that most do-it-yourselfers go to. However, there is a relatively new type of flooring available from a company called KONECTO.

This is a vinyl composition floor that comes in planks similar to laminate flooring. Some of the features that make it so nice are as follows:

It doesn't need any underlayment
You only need a utility knife to cut it. You simply score it with the knife and then snap it apart.
No adhesives are needed
It is a floating floor, so you can lay it directly over existing vinyl or tile floors or directly over your subfloor.
It is 100% water resistant and resistant to most household chemicals
Incredibly durable and easy to maintain
Beautiful--very realistic

KONECTO has so many positive qualities, especially the fact that it is probably the easiest to install floor on the market today. So when I am asked for a recommendation on a DIYers floor, this is the first thing that comes to mind. As a matter of fact they have an interesting video on their website showing how easy it is to work with. Here is a link to the video so you can see for yourself: KONECTO video

This blog's purpose: Useful flooring related information

2008-05-05T13:59:00.000-07:00

Thank you for stopping to look at my blog! I hope to use this space to bring you various bits of information about flooring in general and about our company as well. I know from a consumer point of view, it is nice to have some familiarity with the companies that you spend a fair amount of your hard-earned dollars with.

It's also nice to be informed on your flooring purchases as well. Over time I will try to give different bits of information on the floors themselves, tips on installing, and various other floor related information.

I hope to add something new each week, so if you have any interest in flooring or would like a little more insight into affordafloors.com, stop by once in a while to see what may interest you. So welcome to the Wonderful World of Flooring!